Double weave is one of my favourite weave structures; it enables a weaver to create two layers of cloth at once, which can be used to create double-width cloth, pockets, pleats or tubes – or simply explore the many possibilities of layer and block interchange. Over the past couple of years, I have had the privilege of exploring double weave with Cally Booker. Cally is a very experienced weaver based in Dundee in Scotland, but her on-line workshops enable weavers across the world to share their ideas and experiences, and learn new ways of approaching a familiar weave structure. Cally is an excellent teacher, and provides on-going support to those who have studied with her, arranging additional talks from other expert weavers, and a platform for sharing our work.
From two very simple warp layers (one neutral, the other striped), and predominantly working in plain weave, the possibilities seemed endless!
Double cloth tends to be woven in simple plain weave, occasionally twill – it is the layer and block interchange which creates the pattern. Cally, however, has made a great personal study of ‘double huck’. Huck lace is a weave structure which uses warp and weft floats to create a lace pattern, and is usually woven as a single layer. The concept of creating two layers of huck lace, with possibilities of layer interchange, was completely new to me. Using a soft wool/silk mix yarn, the end result was a warm, light, luxuriously soft fabric – perfect for a shawl or scarf.
Thank you, Cally, for two very inspiring enjoyable workshops. I am still exploring!
Jane Stockley 